UTILIZATION OF NIGERIAN MADE FABRICS FOR GARMENT MAKING AMONG ACADEMIC AND NON ACADEMIC FEMALE STAFF IN ENUGU STATE

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
TITLE PAGE i
APPROVAL PAGE ii
CERTIFICATION iii
DEDICATION iv
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS v
TABLE OF CONTENT vi
LIST OF TABLES ix
LIST OF FIGURES x
ABSTRACT xi
CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION 1
Background to the Study 1
Statement of the Problem 9
Purpose of the Study 10
Significance of the Study 11
Research Questions 13
Hypotheses 13
Scope of the Study 14
CHAPTER TWO: REVIEW OF RELATED LITERATURE 15
Conceptual Framework 16
 Fabrics 17
 Utilization 39
 Garment and Styles 54
 Academic and Non Academic female staff 66
Theoretical Framework 72
 Fabric Consumption Theory 72
 Psychological Motivation Fashion Consumption Theory 73
Review of Related Empirical Studies 73
Summary of Literature Review 76

CHAPTER THREE: METHODOLOGY 78
Design of the Study 78
Area of the Study 78
Population for the Study 79
Sample and Sampling Technique 79
Instrument for Data Collection 80
Validation of the Instrument 81
Reliability of the Instrument 81
Method of Data Collection 82
Method of Data Analysis 82
CHAPTER FOUR: PRESENTATION AND ANALYSIS OF DATA 83
Research Question 1 83
Research Question 2 84
Research Question 3 86
Research Question 4 87
Research Question 5 88
Research Question 6 89
Hypothesis 1 91
Hypothesis 2 92
Hypothesis 3 94
Hypothesis 4 95
Hypothesis 5 96
Findings of Study 98
Discussion of Findings 101
CHAPTER FIVE: SUMMARY, CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS 107
Re-Statement of the Problem 107
Summary of Procedures Used 109
Summary of major findings 110
Implications of the Study 111
Conclusion 113
Recommendations 113
Suggestions for Further Studies 115

REFERENCES 116
APPENDICES:
Appendix A: Respondents letter 120
Appendix B: Questionnaire 121
Appendix C: Request for validation 125
Appendix D: Reliability of the Instrument 126
Appendix E: Output of Data Analyzed 129

LIST OF TABLES
Table Pages

  1. Mean ratings and Standard Deviation of Respondents on the Factors
    that guide Academic and Non Academic female staff in Enugu State in
    selection and Utilization of Fabrics/garment. 83
  2. Mean ratings and Standard Deviation of Respondents on the Garment styles Utilized by Academic and Non Academic female staff in Enugu State. 85
  3. Mean ratings and Standard Deviation of Respondents on the Different
    Occasions where Nigerian Fabrics are Utilized Among Academic and
    Non Academic female staff in Enugu State 86
  4. Mean ratings and Standard Deviation of Respondents on the Factors
    Affecting Utilization of Garment made with Nigerian Fabrics among
    Academic and Non Academic female staff in Enugu State 87
  5. Mean ratings and Standard Deviation of Respondents on the
    Factors Affecting the Quality of Nigerian Fabrics 88
  6. Mean ratings and Standard Deviation of Respondents on the
    Measures to Improve the Utilization of Nigerian Fabrics Among
    Academic and Non Academic female staff 90
  7. t-test Analysis of the mean Ratings of Academic and Non-academic
    Academic and Non Academic female staff on the Factors that Guide
    their selection and Utilization of Fabrics/Garments 91
  8. t-test Analysis of the mean Ratings of Academic and Non-academic
    Academic and Non Academic female staff on the garment styles
    utilized among them. 93
  9. t-test Analysis of the mean Ratings of Academic and Non-academic
    Academic and Non Academic female staff on the different occasions
    where Nigerian fabrics are utilized among them. 94
  10. t-test Analysis of the mean Ratings of Academic and Non-academic
    Academic and Non Academic female staff on the factors affecting
    utilization of garment made with Nigerian fabrics among them 96
  11. t-test Analysis of the mean Ratings of Academic and Non-academic
    Academic and Non Academic female staff on the factors affecting
    utilization of the quality of Nigerian fabrics. 97

LIST OF FIGURE
Fig. 1: Schema of Conceptual Frame work 71

ABSTRACT
The major purpose of this study was to investigate the Utilization of Nigerian fabrics for garment making among Academic and Non Academic female staff in Enugu State.The study adopted descriptive survey research design. The study was carried out using Academic and Non Academic female Staff in government tertiary institutions in Enugu State. Six research questions were developed and answered by the study; and five hypotheses were formulated and tested at 0.05 level of significance. The population of the study was fourteen thousand, eight hundred and forty one (14,841)female academic and non academic staff of government tertiary institutions in Enugu state. A sample of 494 respondents was drawn from the population using purposive and proportionate 5% sampling techniques. The instrument for data collection was a structured questionnaire divided into two sections (A and B). Section A contained questions to elicit information on personal data of the respondents while Section B was developed based on the six research questions. The instrument had a four point rating scale of Strongly agree, Agree, Disagree and Strongly Disagree. The instrument was subjected to face-validation by three experts from the Department of Home Economics and Hospitality Management Education, University of Nigeria, Nsukka. To establish the reliability of the instrument, thirty (30) copies of questionnaire were trial tested on thirty (30) female workers in Abuja. Cronbach Alpha reliability method was used to establish the internal consistency of the instrument which yielded reliability coefficient of 0.82.The researcher administered and collected instrument with the help of three trained research assistants. Four hundred and ninety four (494) copies of the questionnaire were returned duly completed and formed the basis of analysis. Mean and standard deviation were used to answer the research questions that guided the study while t – test was used to test the null hypotheses at 0.05 level of significance. The findings of the study showed that seven factors guided Academic and Non Academic female staff in selection and utilization of fabrics/garment, four garment styles were utilized by Academic and Non Academic female staff using Nigerian Fabrics and five different occasions where Nigerian fabrics were utilized. The findings of the study also showed six factors affecting utilization of garment made with Nigerian fabrics. The tested hypotheses showed that academic and non-academic Academic and Non Academic female staff differed significantly (p<0.05) in their responses on the factors that guided their selection and utilization of fabrics and also on the different occasions where Nigerian fabrics were utilized in Enugu State. It was found that Academic and Non Academic female staff did not differ significantly (p>0.05) in their responses on the factors affecting utilization of garment made with Nigerian fabrics. It was recommended among others that Tailors and clothing manufacturers should shift from custom made garment to mass produced, quality ready to wear garments. Government should enforce laws intended to reduce the importation of foreign garments and also encourage tailors and fabrics/clothing manufacturers through granting of loans, provision of appropriate machinery, training of staff to mass produce fabrics and garments made from them.

CHAPTER ONE
INTRODUCTION
Background to the Study

Utilization of Fabrics has been of considerable research interest. This is because it is the basic material used in construction of garments/clothing which is one of the basic needs of human being Anyakoha and Eluwa (2010). The varied importance of fabrics in daily life can also be understood from its wide usage in furnishing, symbolic communication and commerce. They are also indispensable to industry, agriculture, transportation, space exploration, health services and other areas. It has been source of economic growth to many countries that are into growing of fibres and manufacture of fabrics. These fabrics are being formed through combination of two or more fibres.
Fibres can be defined as the hair-like basic unit of raw material used in making yarns and fabrics. Nkeonye (2009) defined fibre as a unit of matter characterized by flexibility and fitness and a high ratio of length to thickness. Fibres can be classified according to their sources or origins. Anyakoha and Eluwa (2010) classified fibre into two which include natural and synthetic or man-made fibre. Anyakoha and Eluwa stated that natural fibres are obtained from natural sources, either from plants or animal. Those obtained from plant are called vegetable fibres examples are cotton flax and ramie among others. While those obtained from animals are called animal fibres examples are Wool and Silk among others. Man-made or manufactured fibres are produced from the chemical treatment of certain raw materials like wood pulp, petroleum, natural gas and air among others. There are two types of man-made fibres: cellulose base and non cellulose base fibres. Anyakoha and Eluwa (2010), noted that cellulose base fibres are produced primarily from wood-pulp, cotton linter with minimum of chemical steps examples are rayon, acetate and triacetate. While non cellulose base fibres are made from molecules that come from petroleum, natural gas, air and water. Examples of fibre made from non cellulose base fibres are nylon and polyester.
Fabric on the other hand is the product of fibres. Fabric is a flexible material that is made by a network of natural or artificial fibres and yarns. According to Nkeonye (2009), it is a flexible woven materials consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres often referred to as thread or yarn. Fabrics are classified according to the fibres used in their construction. Anyakoha and Eluwa(2010) classified fabrics into natural and synthetic or man-made fabrics. Most natural fabrics are breathable and never cause rashes apart from being soft and durable. Natural fabrics are mostly the best choices for everyone. They do not change color from Ultra Violet light and there is no warming until the material loses its tensile strength. Anyakoha (2010) further stated that artificial or synthetic fabrics are made from fibres which are either completely made from inorganic materials or organic materials combined with chemicals. Synthetic or man-made fabrics have numerous properties with the purpose for which it is produced and finished. Some are lightweight with ultra sheer while others are moisture wicking and fast drying. Few are very luxurious to imitate some other natural fabrics and some are very strong and tough. Fabrics are manufactured in wide varieties and designs and different designs and effects are produced on fabric with various mechanisms which are helpful to form different weaves and lots of design which enhances the look of apparels. Fabric manufacture is the process of combining two or more fibre using different methods to get fabrics. Examples of such methods are weaving, knitting and crocheting among others.
Weaving is one of the various mechanisms of fabric manufacturing. Murray (2005) define weaving as the method or process of interlacing two or more sets of yarns or similar materials so that they cross each other at usually right angles to produce woven fabric. The author further explains it is the act of causing two or more systems of yarn, warp and filling to interlace. This may be done on a power or hand loom or by several manual methods. After weaving, the most prevalent method of fabric construction is knitting. Its popularity has grown tremendously over the recent years. The knitted fabric has the advantage of stretch ability which provides fit and comfort. It also gives warmth and at the same time porous and provide breathing comfort. According to Murray (2005) there are two major varieties of knitting: weft knitting and warp knitting. In weft knitting, one continuous yarn forms courses across the fabric. In warp knitting, a series of yarns form wales in the lengthwise direction of the fabric. The knitting machine also called knitting frame, knitting loom, or hand knitting machine is used to manufacture knit fabrics. These fabrics are produced on a fixed bed of hooked needles. The Knitting machines can be hand driven or motor powered. The machines come in domestic and industrial models, with either flat or circular beds that produce rectangular or tubular fabrics. The fabric produced by a knitting machine has a more fine texture than hand-knitted fabric. Murray (2005) further explained that another major type of fabric construction method is the crocheting. He said Crocheting is an extremely versatile and popular technique for making a variety of fashion and home decor accessories. To crochet, a hook and yarn are needed. Depending on the type of yarn to be used, a variety of different fabrics can be created. By combining crochet stitches and lighter weight or softer yarns, a delicate droppable fabric can be created. A thicker yarn produces a sturdy fabric. Beautiful textured and raised stitches are especially easy to make in crochet. Fine threads can be used to create lacy projects like doilies or even string or cord. It is started by making a slip stitch, wrapping the yarn around the hook and pulling a loop through the slip stitch. This is the basic chain stitch. A series of chains creates a foundation row and from this base you build rows of stitches. Crocheting can be done in rows, keeping the work flat, or the stitches are joined, creating a ring and work in the round.Many countries including Nigeria produce different varieties of fabrics materials using these methods. The fabrics produced by foreign countries are referred to as foreign fabrics while those produced by the local industries in Nigeria are called Nigerian made fabrics
Made in Nigerian fabric is a general term employed by Nigerians to include wax printed fabrics that are woven and printed in Nigeria (Nkeonye 2009). Made in Nigeria fabrics are in two folds, those produced by traditional producers and those produced by the contemporary fabric industries. The traditional producers are those that do not have formal training in the production of fabrics but learnt their skill by imitating their people who have producing clothe as part of their custom. Example the Yorub as are known for the production of Aso oke fabric and the skills are passed from parents to their children. The contemporary industries are the big fabric factories who employ staff that have formal and informal training in manufacture of fabrics. They are big, more organized companies that use machinery in production of large quantities of fabric materials. The traditional producers produce fabrics such as Adire, Batik, Tie and Dye, Aso-Oke, Akwete, Akwa Ocha, Okene, Ota Ochi, Anger and Atu. Veritable Wax, Brocades, Damasks and Lace are produced by contemporary fabric industries and textile mills. Some fabrics manufacturing industries in Nigeria according to Finelib 2015 include: African Textile Manufactures Ltd. in Kano, Femro 3 Nigerian Ltd. located in Satelite town, Lagos State, ABA Textile Mills Plc in Aba, Abia State, Afriprint Nigeria Print Nigerian Plc in Isolo, Lagos State, Asaba Textile Mill Plc in Asaba etc. Fabrics produced by these textile companies in Nigeria are utilized in so many ways by both men and women for different purposes.
Utilization means to make use especially to make profitable or effective use of. Martins, (2004) described it as an act of using something. Fabric utilization involves deciding what to wear, how to wear, how to purchase or obtain what to wear including methods of sewing garments or making them and when to wear clothes for various occasions. Fabric utilization does not end until the clothing is worn on the body. Fabric utilization of any given individual includes all the procedures involved in planning, shopping and sewing and wearing of clothes. Each of these procedures includes various steps of making decision. If clothing is to perform its varied functions, it has to be appropriately selected for specific purposes or function. Nigerian made fabrics are used in making a growing number of fashion items like bags, shoes, dresses, jewellery and countless accessories. Different styles of these clothing items are utilized in so many areas, occasions, and events by both men and women including the working class either for cultural activities and identities, for occupational identity or traditional activities. Nigerian ceremonial parties, such as weddings, birthdays and wedding anniversaries, are usually adorned with different beautiful styles of Nigerian made fabrics by both men and women, young and old. Aso Ebi, which is usually encouraged by families of both the bride and groom for friends and relatives adds colour and glamour to wedding ceremonies. Nigerian made fabrics are also utilized largely in attires for churches and other religious activities. Various garments are sewn using Nigerian made fabrics and they include skirts and blouses, gowns, blouse and rapper for women suits, short and long-sleeve shirts and trousers.
Garments are forms of clothes, including gowns, skirts, blouses, shirts or tops, and trousers specially constructed from fabrics or other materials to serve different functions for the wearer; including protection, promotion of health, safety and improvement of job efficiency (Ozougwu, 2008). Garment making as one of the occupation in the clothing industry is act of designing, cutting, arranging and sewing different components of a garment. Garment making is a technical accomplishment that requires knowledge of fabrics, principles of clothing construction and skills involved in it (Tortora, 2005). The author further stated that this is the ability to select the correct fabric, colour, design and accessories to suit an individual occasion. A garment that is made will be attractive if it fits well and proper attention is paid to its finer details. Choosing garments and garment styles depends on the occasion for which the garments are meant for. For example the choice of garments for church may not be the same with that for office wear or other social occasions. Garments for churches are made in such a way as to maintain decency and modesty while that for office is mainly such that will uphold work standards, promote decorum and discipline in work place atmosphere, enforce morality and promote free movement. Working class women are among the groups that select office clothing that will help to uphold work standard, promote decorum and discipline and also promote movement in their work places.
Working class women are those who are working under the authority of a boss or are bosses themselves at work. Doob (2013) defined working class women as women employed for wages, especially in manual-labour occupations and in skilled industrial work. The author further said that working-class women include those engaged in occupations that include blue-collar jobs, white-collar jobs, and most service-work jobs. Doob (2013) stated working class to include all those who have nothing to sell but their labor-power and skills. In the context of this study working class women include all sedentary female worker in Nigeria and Enugu state in particular. They are with the age bracket of 25 – 60. These women may include both literate and non literate in private or public organizations or academic and non academic staff in institutions settings. The literates are those that are educated while the illiterates are the uneducated ones. In institutions are found the academics who are the teaching staff of the institutions and the non academics include all other staff that are not teaching or lecturing staff members, examples are the administrative staff, security, technicians etc. These working class women are generally conditioned by society and culture to pay attention to their appearance and how they portray themselves, especially in the workplace.
In Enugu state, women especially the working class women are generally attracted to possess variety of garments but what guide their selection is not known. It is being observed that these clothing items possessed by the women are mostly imported ready-to-wear garments. Though they utilize Nigerian fabrics, it is mostly on occasions like dance troupe, naming ceremony, marriage, chieftaincy, burial, yam festival and other social functions rather than for office clothes except for few who wear them on Fridays as native garments. They choose to appear in simple Western attire because of the comfort and simplicity which is needed in clothes meant for office. Fabrics utilization among working class women are such that stabilizes the work place atmosphere, promotes decorum and has a real and reasonable connection with the successful operation of the work ethics and with the maintenance of work place. Some of the styles sewn with Nigerian made fabrics are not always comfortable when worn to office. Examples of such styles are heavy “george”, “aso oke”, long skirts and buba, blouses tied with two rappers, heavy bead, head gele and other accessories which are most times uncomfortable. Working class women also consider fabric manufacturing, printing designs, quality of printing and ease of care of fabrics to select fabrics for their wards’ apparel (Jones, 2009). According to Ross (2008), a good fabric for making apparel should not fade. This is because clothing needs to be laundered and after many washings, one will not want the colour in the fabric to be washed out. Consumers look at the print on the fabric, to check whether the dye goes through the fibres or is just rolled on and barely saturating the fibres. Ross (2008)said that if the dye is not embedded in the fabric, it will probably fade out after a couple of washings. A solid colour fabric which is the same colour on the front and back because the fibres are dyed are preferred to a print which is rolled on to a plain white muslin so the dye is not totally embedded in the fibres and is more apt to fade after repeated washings. Qualities of some Nigerian made fabrics are low that they tend to wash and lose their original colour and this scare some working class women away from its utilization. Working class women equally consider the cost while selecting their office dresses as some of them earn little amount that they cannot afford expensive clothes. They go for second hand clothes (Okirika) with affordable prices rather than for expensive clothes. Nigerian fabrics are expensive to make and as such working class women do not consider it the best option. This is because it will cost a lot of money to purchase the fabrics together with tailoring the garment. Fashion designer and tailors are other negative contributors to the low patronage of Nigerian made fabrics. Duro,(2015), noted that the inability of fashion designer and tailors to procure the right equipments together with their low skills in production of garments with these Nigerian fabrics has negatively affected their utilization by working class women. This is because they often get disappointed either from delay in getting the garments ready or the inability of tailors to produce customers’ desired design with the accurate measurement to fit their shapes and sizes. These has caused the underutilization of Nigerian fabrics among these important groups of the society in Enugu state and the problems has escalated to grounding of many local fabric manufacturing industries and unemployment of many graduates of clothing and textile. This has also negatively affected the economy of the nation and calls for the need for this study in order to investigate measures to be taken in order to improve the utilization Nigerian fabrics among this group.
Statement of the Problem

UTILIZATION OF NIGERIAN MADE FABRICS FOR GARMENT MAKING AMONG ACADEMIC AND NON ACADEMIC FEMALE STAFF IN ENUGU STATE